Week in Review

DoctorZin provides a review of this past week's [11/13-11/19] major news events regarding Iran. (The reports are listed in chronological order, not by importance)

Ahmadinejad.

• Iran Focus reported that 75% of the ministers and deputy ministers in the government of hard-line President Mahmoud Ahmadinejad come from Iran’s Islamic Revolutionary Guards Corps.
• William O. Beeman, The Age reported that Mr Ahmadinejad has rejected the establishment Islamic leadership of Ayatollah Ali Khamenei.
• Iran Press News reported that the Islamic regime’s ambassador to Turkey has been called back to Iran to be replaced.
• Iran Focus reported that Iran’s President Mahmoud Ahmadinejad has appointed one of his nephews as his new security chief.
• Reuters reported that Iran's Supreme Leader Ayatollah Ali Khamenei said: Criticism of Iran's President Mahmoud Ahmadinejad is unfair.
• Times of Oman reported that Iran's hardline President Mahmoud Ahmadinejad has pulled out of the UN's World Summit for the Information Society in Tunisia this week.
• Iran Press News Ahmadinejad’s newest proposed oil minister has a US Green Card.
• Iran Press News reported that Iran is no longer scared of exacerbating relations with the international community.
• Meysame Tavab, Rooz Online reported that a group of Turkemen Iranians asked Ahmadinejad to look into their living conditions and problems, he bluntly responded: “Go to the candidate for whom you voted and ask him to look into your problems.”
• Rooz Online reported that in his harshest words ever, former president Mohammad Khatami, directed an attack on Iran’s hardliners saying their dogmatic and regressive ideology is similar to that of Bin Laden.
• Iran Focus reported that still more of Iran’s military commanders are being appointed to government position by the new administration.
• Iran Focus reported that Ahmadinejad has had to cancel scheduled visits to several foreign countries while “a majority of governments around the world” have been canceling visits to their capitals by Iranian government delegations.
• Gareth Smyth in Tehran, The Financial Times reported that Rafsanjani attacked president Mahmoud Ahmadi-Nejad for damaging “national unity and solidarity”.
• Paul Hughes, Reuters reported that President Mahmoud Ahmadinejad's devotion to a mystical religious figure that is arousing greater interest inside Iran.
• The Guardian reported that Ahmadinejad faces a range of critical problems with the west. But the Iranian president's handling of these flashpoints is also creating internal problems - reaching the highest levels in Tehran.
• The Guardian reported that Iran is facing political paralysis as its newly elected president purges government institutions.
• Islamic Republic of Iran Broadcasting reported that the Iranian President forbids bullet-proof cars.
  
• Iran Focus reported that Iran’s former President Mohammad Khatami defended the hard-line stance of Mahmoud Ahmadinejad against the state of Israel.
  

Iran's Nuclear Program.

• The People's Daily reported that Iran said on Sunday that it is pursuing a balance between the West and the East during nuclear negotiations.
• CBS News reported that El Baradei has thrown his weight behind a plan calling on Iran to move its uranium enrichment program to Russia.
• MosNews reported that the work to construct the Bushehr nuclear power plant is 80 % complete.
• The Hindu reported that a senior Russian official who is visiting Iran has denied giving specific proposals to his hosts that would help defuse the Iranian nuclear crisis.
• The Financial Times reported that Iran dismissed the latest U.S. allegations about its atomic ambitions.
• Ken Timmerman, News Max reported that IAEA Director General Mohammad ElBaradei wants to give Iran "one last chance" before sending Iran's case to the United Nations Security Council.
• Hindustan Times reported that a key ally of the United Progressive Alliance (UPA) government has indicated it could "rethink" its support if India did not abstain from voting on the Iran nuclear issue at the upcoming IAEA meeting in Vienna.
• RIA Novosti reported that following talks with Syrian leaders Tuesday, Iran's foreign minister said the country would be in a better position by the upcoming IAEA session.
• Agence France Presse reported that Iran will start converting 50 tonnes of uranium ore from the end of next week.
• Iran Press News reported that IAEA inspectors in Iran were accused of raising "illegal" issues "outside their authority to ask."
• Iran Press News reported that Iran's parliament is conducting an investigation of Ahmadinejad's conduct and may consider impeachment proceedings.
• Memri.org published an excellent report: The ‘Second Islamic Revolution’ in Iran: Power Struggle at the Top.
• Dafna Linzer, The Washington Post reported that Iran ignores pleas to halt uranium Work.
• Hemscott reported that EU negotiators Britain, Germany and France have turned down a Russian offer to host an EU-Iran meeting in Moscow next week.
• Dow Jones Newswires reported that Iran's reluctance to act to allay international fears about its nuclear agenda is increasingly alienating Russia.
• CBS News reported that Russia is increasingly frustrated with Iran's reluctance to compromise on its nuclear activities, and that anger is helping the United States.
• Forbes reported that the US said an informal meeting on Iran's nuclear program would be held in London on Friday.
• Mark Heinrich and Francois Murphy, Reuters:Iran has told the U.N. nuclear watchdog that it received a black-market document which diplomats said on Friday contained partial instructions for making the core of an atomic bomb.
• The Times of India reported that India's Left resigned to India voting in favor of the US resolution if voting is resorted to again.
• Reuters reported that Bush backed an initiative by Russian President Putin to end a stalemate over Iran's nuclear project.
• Reuters reported that Iran on Friday took the highly unusual step of running a costly full-page ad in the New York Times defending its nuclear activities.
• Steve Schippert, Threats Watch thinks Ahmadinejad may be overplaying his hand with Russia. A great new blog, by some of the best.
• Alissa J. Rubin, The LA Times reported that Iran is still NOT opening up to the IAEA.
• Carla Anne Robbins, The Wall Street Journal discussed the most recent IAEA report on Iran and stirs questions about Iran's nuclear program.
• Hamed Irani, Rooz Online reported that in the corridors of power of the Iran’s government there is talk of relegating Iran's sensitive nuclear talks to the Expediency Council lead by former president Hashemi Rafsanjani.
  

Who's Who.

• Maryam Kashani, Rooz Online published an interview with Ayatollah Hassanali Montazeri.
• Hossein Bastani, Rooz Online provided more background information on Mesbah Yazdi.
• Maryam Kashani, Rooz Online reported that Mesbah Yazdi thinks that Iran's new government is God’s gift to enact Islamic values. But others believe that Ahmadinejad’s presidency is an era filled with dangers.
  

Iranian Dissidents.

• Rooz Online published the letter political activists sent to the head of Iran’s Judiciary to impartially review Akbar Ganji's case.
• Iran Press News published a translation of letter by Iranian prisoners asking for international help.
• Iran Press News reported that the spokesman for the regime's judiciary said: "Ganji has a prison sentence and a few months remain on his sentence; it's not like if foreign countries demand his release, that we would comply!"
• Morteza Abdolalian, Iran Watch Canada reported that Akbar Ganji has been awarded the 2006 Golden Pen of Freedom.
• Laura Secor, The New Yorker reported on Iran’s new generation of dissidents and the collapse of the nation’s reformist movement.
• Khaleej Times reported that Nobel laureate Shirin Ebadi said on Tuesday she has been repeatedly threatened with death.
• ABC News reported that Iran's judiciary said it would ask Supreme Leader Ayatollah Ali Khamenei to pardon 18 pro-reform students.
• Iran Press News reported that blogger Mojtaba Saminejad, twenty-five year old university student in Iran has been transferred to ward 30 where 30 Afghanis who have all been charged with murder.
• Farhad Mahdavi, Rooz Online wonders how is Ganji going to survive without food and water?

The Unrest Inside of Iran.

• Iran Press News reported on workers protests in Tabas, Yazd and Abadan.
• Iran Focus reported that more than a hundred people have been arrested in the province of north-western province of Ardebil for “disturbing the peace” and “causing trouble.”
• Iran Press News reported that a sports photographer was attacked and beaten to near death by the regime’s disciplinary forces in front of thousands of spectators, players and reporters.
• Iran Press News reported that the law library of Tehran University caught fire; the majority of the library burned. Some suspect arson by pro-regime forces since this library contained massive volumes of books on western jurisprudence and internal law.
  

Human Rights/Freedom of the press inside of Iran.

• Babak Mehdizadeh, Rooz Online published an interview with three Iranian publishers discussing their latest struggles to publish inside of Iran.
• Shahram Kholdi, ScanIranic issued the first part of its report: The unending list of Bloggers, Students, and Journalists under Prosecution in Iran.
• Iran Press News reported that 11 student publications were banned by Oroumiyeh University.
• Reuters reported that an Iranian appeals court has ordered the case concerning the 2003 death in custody of a Canadian journalist re-opened, upholding Ottawa's opinion that the original trial was flawed.
• Mercury News reported that an Iranian appeals court has upheld the acquittal of an Iranian secret agent in the killing a Canadian-Iranian journalist.
• Amnesty International in a public statement said it welcomes the announcement of a new investigation into the murder of Canadian journalist Kazemi in Iran, but renews its calls for a fully independent investigation.
• Reuters reported that a U.N. General Assembly committee narrowly approved on Friday a resolution expressing serious concern over a long list of human rights abuses in Iran.
• CNET News.com reported on Iran's recent effort to remove control the internet from the US.
• Lillian Swift, The Telegraph UK reports that Iran is on the brink of entering another dark age.
• Reporters Without Borders called for the reopening of the investigation into the murder of photojournalist Zahra Kazemi.
• J. Grant Swank Jr., American Daily reports that despite last weeks's international vote on the control of the internet, there are those "out there" determined to take the Internet out of US control.
  

Iran's troublemaking.

• Iran Press News reported Iran is preparing to use Satellite Television to harass Muslim emigrants to the west.
• Iran Press News reported on a gathering of the suicide-bombers at Shahroud Industrial University, 1000 new volunteers turned up in order to register themselves for suicide missions.
  

U.S. Policy.

• The Associated Press reported that Secretary of State Condoleezza Rice gave her strongest rebuke yet on Sunday to the renewed hardline Islamic leadership of Iran.
• U.S. Senate Committee on Homeland Security and Governmental Affairs held hearings on Iran where Senators were shown disturbing graphics discovered by this blog.
• Radio Free Europe reported that U.S. Assistant Secretary of State for European and Eurasian Affairs Daniel Fried has said the UN's International Atomic Energy Agency should "act with determination" when it meets next week at a key meeting on Iran's nuclear program.
  

The Iranian Military.

• Middle East Newsline reported that Iran was said to have nearly completed another intermediate-range missile capable of striking most of Europe. The so-called Ghadr missile was said to have a range of up to 3,000 kilometers.
• The Washington Post reported that Iran said its first satellite is capable of spying on the Jewish state.
• The Associated Press reported that an Israeli diplomat claims Iran has supplied Hezbollah with more than ten-thousand short-range rockets.
  

The Economy.

• Meysam Tavab, Rooz Online in a special report provided behind the scenes details of a meeting of government economic advisors meeting with Ahmadinejad and their counsel to temporarily close Tehran’s Stock Exchange.
• Iran Press News reported on Iran's brain drain as 300,000 educated and skilled Iranians emigrate from Iran every year.
• Gareth Smyth in Tehran, The Financial Times reported that Iran's state-owned Keshavarzi agriculture bank yesterday reduced its lending rate to 9 per cent, a signal that Ahmadinejad is pressing ahead with his populist agenda of "social justice".
  

Iran and the International community.

• Iran Press News reported that Italian Defense Minister, Antonio Martino said: Tehran’s regime supports terrorist activities and terrorists and is therefore considered a threat to Italy and all European countries.
• Pak Tribune reported that Pakistan's Foreign Minister Khurshid Mahmood Kasuri Monday made it clear that Pakistan was opposed to use force against Iran over its controversial nuclear program.
• Daily Star reported that the loyalty of Hizbullah and the Lebanese Shiite community is again under scrutiny.
• Iran Press News reported that Jalal Talebani, Iraqi President, severely criticized the Europeans. He said: One day, Europeans must grasp that 27 million Iraqis finally have freedom, democracy and human rights because of this war.
• Iran Press News reported that Tehran's torturers were at the secret prison in Baghdad.
• Gianfranco Fini, Italy's FM The Wall Street Journal said: We are convinced that an Iran finally liberated from the shackles of radical fundamentalism can play an essential role in ensuring the stability of the entire region.
• The Washington Times reported that the discovery of a secret Iraqi Interior Ministry torture chamber confirms what has been an open secret in Baghdad for months: Pro-Iranian militia have deeply infiltrated the ministry and are acting as a law unto themselves.
• Islamic Republic News Agency reported that UK Foreign Office Minister Lord Triesman said that the "evidence is compelling" about the sequence of events that led the UK to proscribe the MKO as a terrorist group.
• Iran Focus reported that a visit to Iran by Iraq’s top security official and his profuse praise of the Iranian government’s policy have aroused serious questions.
• Iran Focus reported that a top official in Iran’s notorious Ministry of Intelligence and Security (MOIS) was running the secret Iraqi Interior Ministry prison in Baghdad.
• Walid Choucair, Al-Hayat reported on Iran and the truth behind its support for Syria.
• Adnkronos International argues that while Europe needs to try to persuade Iran to show greater respect for human rights and to live up to nuclear conventions - the country must not be isolated.
  

Insight into the Iranian people.

• Iran Press Newsreported that 68.5% of Iranian's polled found Ahmadinejad’s attire to be a complete embarrassment.
• ET, A View from Iran reported that isolating Iran is what the Fundamentalists want inside of Iran. An interesting debate between to Iranians.
• Amy Kellogg, FOX News published her reporter's notebook: Inside Iran.
  

Can You Believe This?

• Mehr News reported that Iraqi Deputy Prime Minister Ahmed Chalabi dismissed allegations that Iran is interfering in Iraq’s internal affairs.
• Adnkronos International reported that Iranian websites are publishing a list of countries to be boycotted by Tehran, should they vote against it at an upcoming meeting of the UN's nuclear watchdog.
• Amnesty International reported that a man was sentenced to death for drinking alcohol.
• Iran Press News reported that recently clothing manufacturers in Iran have begun marketing a new style of jacket, referred to as Ahmadinejad Windbreakers. The jackets are only $5. Now you can dress like Ahmandinejad.
• Newsmax reported that ex-president Bill Clinton urged Israelis not to overreact to comments by Ahmadinejad saying: true peace and security can only come through principled compromise.
• Iran Mania reported that Iran's volunteer Islamic militiamen known as 'Bassijis' are vowing to form a human chain along the length of the country's borders as a show of force. Sounds like a good day for a demonstration.
  

Must Read reports.

• Eli Lake, The New York Sun reported on the backlash in Zarqawi's hometown over the suicide attacks in Jordan.
• Shahram Rafizadeh, Rooz Online reported that workers strikes are seen as one of the principal challenges that the new hardline president Mahmoud Ahmadinejad will have to deal with as the strikes are expected to grow in size.
• Iranian.ws discussed the characteristics of the alternative to the Islamic regime of Iran.
• U.S. Senate Committee on Homeland Security and Governmental Affairs held hearings on Iran where Senators were shown disturbing graphics discovered by this blog. Transcripts of testimony included.
  
• The American Thinker reported on how Ahmadinejad’s terror policy must be fought.
• John R. Bradley, The Straits Times argued that with the West focused on long-term fears of Iran's nuclear ambitions, a short-term threat posed by the Iranian regime is not getting the attention it deserves.
• Avigdor Haselkorn, FrontPageMagazine reported on Iran's current war on Israel.
  

The Experts.

• Michael Rubin, Jerusalem Center for Public Affairs published a report: Ethnic Unrest in Iran is Not a Sign of Separatist Sentiments.
• Amir Taheri, Arab News reported that French Muslims are being told that rather than obeying the laws of the French Republic, they should follow “fatwas” concocted by the Muslim Brotherhood and members of various militant Islamist groups presenting themselves as an alterative to state authority.
• Mordechai Abir, The Jerusalem Issue Brief published a report: Iran's New Revolutionary Guards Regime: Anti-Americanism, Oil, and Rising International Tension.
• Amir Taheri, Gulf News contrasted the so called "reformists" with the new conservatives in Iran. A long overdue analysis. A must read.
• Amir Taheri, Arab News reported why Iran cannot be trusted and the problems with UN sanctions.
• Michael Rubin, The Daily Star warns that a serious problem for democracy in the Middle East is the corruption of its leaders and the hopelessness it creates.
  

Photos, cartoons and videos.

• Iranian Student News Agency published photos of Tehran University students protesting against the poor conditions.
• MemriTV published a video with proof that most Iranians lack revolutionary zeal.
• Winston, The Spirit of Man published a photo of Iran's radicals having fun destroying an American symbol.
  

And finally, The Quote of the Week.

Islamic Republic of Iran Broadcasting:President Mahmoud Ahmadinejad said here Wednesday:

"Tendency toward leading luxurious lives has not a place in this government and we would not permit imports of to 5 billion Rial (30 to 50 thousand US Dollar) bullet-proof cars, or permit some government officials to keep using such cars."

Sunday's Daily Briefing on Iran

DoctorZin reports, 11.20.2005:

Iranian President forbids bullet-proof cars

Islamic Republic of Iran Broadcasting:

President Mahmoud Ahmadinejad said here Wednesday, "A long stride will be taken toward fair distribution of the country's budget in the year 1385 (beginning on March 20). ...

President Ahmadinejad referred to Friday prayer as "one of the main centers for promotion of kindness in the society," adding, "Friday prayers leaders, too, are the most significant supporters of social justice." ...

Emphasizing that the Islamic Revolution's main ideal is preparing the path for the era when man would establish a glorious government on earth, Ahmadinejad said, "Our mission is paving the path for the glorious reappearance of Imam Mahdi (May God Hasten his Reappearance)."

He added, "In order to reach that goal, Iran should turn into a mighty, advanced, and model Islamic society."

He said, "Today we must define our economic, political, and cultural policies in the framework of the school of patience (in absence of the 12th Shi'a Imam), refraining from leaning toward any Western school of thought." ...

Ahmadinejad stressed, "Tendency toward leading luxurious lives has not a place in this government and we would not permit imports of to 5 billion Rial (30 to 50 thousand US Dollar) bullet-proof cars, or permit some government officials to keep using such cars." READ MORE

Might we expect some of Ahmadinejad's enemies will be trying to get their hands on an existing bullet proof car?

Plus, it contains many other interesting statements by Ahmadinejad. Worth reading.

Here are a few other news items you may have missed.

• Steve Schippert, Threats Watch thinks Ahmadinejad may be overplaying his hand with Russia. A great new blog, by some of the best.
• Lillian Swift, The Telegraph UK reports that Iran is on the brink of entering another dark age.
• Iran Focus reported that a visit to Iran by Iraq’s top security official and his profuse praise of the Iranian government’s policy have aroused serious questions.
• Alissa J. Rubin, The LA Times reported that Iran is still NOT opening up to the IAEA.
• Iran Focus reported that a top official in Iran’s notorious Ministry of Intelligence and Security (MOIS) was running the secret Iraqi Interior Ministry prison in Baghdad.
• Iran Focus reported that Iran’s former President Mohammad Khatami defended the hard-line stance of Mahmoud Ahmadinejad against the state of Israel.
• Carla Anne Robbins, The Wall Street Journal discussed the most recent IAEA report on Iran and stirs questions about Iran's nuclear program.
• Walid Choucair, Al-Hayat reported on Iran and the truth behind its support for Syria.
• Amy Kellogg, FOX News published her reporter's notebook: Inside Iran.
• Reporters Without Borders called for the reopening of the investigation into the murder of photojournalist Zahra Kazemi.
• J. Grant Swank Jr., American Daily reports that despite last weeks's international vote on the control of the internet, there are those "out there" determined to take the Internet out of US control.
• Adnkronos International argues that while Europe needs to try to persuade Iran to show greater respect for human rights and to live up to nuclear conventions - the country must not be isolated.
• Hamed Irani, Rooz Online reported that in the corridors of power of the Iran’s government there is talk of relegating Iran's sensitive nuclear talks to the Expediency Council lead by former president Hashemi Rafsanjani.
• Maryam Kashani, Rooz Online reported that Mesbah Yazdi thinks that Iran's new government is God’s gift to enact Islamic values. But others believe that Ahmadinejad’s presidency is an era filled with dangers.
• Farhad Mahdavi, Rooz Online wonders how is Ganji going to survive without food and water?
• And finally, DoctorZin asks our readers to take a minute and vote now for Regime Change Iran for inclusion in the Deck O'Bloggers.

President forbids bullet-proof cars

Islamic Republic of Iran Broadcasting:

President Mahmoud Ahmadinejad said here Wednesday, "A long stride will be taken toward fair distribution of the country's budget in the year 1385 (beginning on March 20).

According to the presidential office media department, the president who was speaking in a meeting with Friday prayers leaders across the country, added, "We praise the worthy services rendered by the past managers of the nation."

He added, "Regarding the country's budget deficit, my suggestion is broad assistance of all those who can assist to solve the problem."

President Ahmadinejad referred to Friday prayer as "one of the main centers for promotion of kindness in the society," adding, "Friday prayers leaders, too, are the most significant supporters of social justice."

Ahmadinejad said, "The Islamic Revolution differs with all definitions presented for revolutions, since it is the continuation of the prophets' movement and a step toward guiding the mankind toward a world in which justice abounds."

Emphasizing that the Islamic Revolution's main ideal is preparing the path for the era when man would establish a glorious government on earth, Ahmadinejad said, "Our mission is paving the path for the glorious reappearance of Imam Mahdi (May God Hasten his Reappearance)."

He added, "In order to reach that goal, Iran should turn into a mighty, advanced, and model Islamic society."

He said, "Today we must define our economic, political, and cultural policies in the framework of the school of patience (in absence of the 12th Shi'a Imam), refraining from leaning toward any Western school of thought."

Ahmadinejad also stressed, "We would never sacrifice our revolution and its ideals to secure the interests of individuals."

Defining his government's practical plans toward prevalence of justice, including fair distribution of opportunities and resources in the society, the president said, "Budget and banking financial facilities would be distributed fairly nationwide, in order to assist the deprived regions."

Ahmadinejad also referred to the establishment of Imam Reza Charity Fund, promotion of exports, economizing in administrative expenses, blocking the path for administrative corruption, broadening the circle of management, and providing access to facilities for the people, as economic measures adopted by the government to eliminate discrimination and incompetence, as well as ushering an economic leap toward justice.

Ahmadinejad stressed, "Tendency toward leading luxurious lives has not a place in this government and we would not permit imports of to 5 billion Rial (30 to 50 thousand US Dollar) bullet-proof cars, or permit some government officials to keep using such cars." READ MORE

He added, "A person that is contagiously the member of fifteen boards of managers and get 20 million Rial ($2,000) salaries from each, would quite naturally speak against this government."

The president emphasized, "The banks are the engines of the country's economy and the government needs to rely on those engines to assist the lower social classes to stand on their own feet."

Ahmadinejad said, "In a government based on justice we cannot permit three percent of the nation to benefit from 60% of the banks'credits."

Announcing that the government is determined to back up economic activities of the people with small capitals, President Ahmadinejad said, "We can have a dynamic economy if the majority of our nation would actively participate in economic affairs and the government backs up and encourages the people in that respect."

The president declared, "We are seriously after decreasing the role of government in economic affairs, and delivering such activities to the people."

He added, "We have been chanting the motto of supporting the private sector, but meanwhile been increasing the public sector's investment in some areas up to 500 fold."

Ahmadinejad also informed that his government has increased the export promotion bonuses up to 50%, adding, "We need to change the import-consumption trend into an import-export trend, and this government is seriously determined to do that."

Referring to the ban for government companies for making any new investments, the president said, "The government is after delivering the benefit of the government firms to the nation, and the system defines religious democracy as trusting the people in taking charge of affairs in various fields."

Turning to the welfare services rendered by his government already, Ahmadinejad said, "We have started laying natural gas pipelines for 9,000 villages throughout the county and established Imam Reza Fund, that is commissioned to support the youth in finding jobs and getting married."

He added, "We have also allocated 10,000 billion Rials ($1 billion) for construction and reconstruction of houses in villages during the current year (ending on March 20th).

Ahmadinejad reiterated, "The government would sever the hands of rent seekers off the national economy and block the path for graft."

The president considered existence of a kind relationship between the government and the nation as "a necessity" warning those that are after sowing the seeds of discord and promotion of enmity in the society that the government would confront them harshly.

Might we expect some of Ahmadinejad's enemies will be trying to get their hands on an existing bullet proof car?

Plus, many other interesting statements by Ahmadinejad in this report. Worth reading.

Iran's Nuclear Hand

Steve Schippert, Threats Watch: Ahmadinejad Overplaying It with Russia?

Since taking office as President of Iran, Mahmoud Ahmadinejad has made some bold moves accompanied by even bolder rhetoric, especially regarding Iran’s nuclear program. It appears that even Russia is beginning to tire of Iran’s bold new president. It appears that a frustrated Russia is shifting to the American/European position on Iran's nuclear weapons program. The effects of a swaying Russia, builders of several of Iran's nuclear reactors and currently under contract with Tehran, would be profound in the international arena.

READ MORE

But increasing frustration in Moscow could swing the Russians closer to the U.S.-European position and indirectly pressure Beijing to also join the mainstream and moderate its opposition to Security Council action, one diplomat said. He, like others talking to The Associated Press, demanded anonymity in exchange for divulging confidential information.

Russia has played an increasingly important role in getting Iran back to negotiations meant to pressure Tehran to compromise on its plans for uranium enrichment. The Americans and Europeans recently agreed to give up their demand that Iran renounce enrichment and related activities and endorsed a plan that would allow Iran to convert uranium but move the enrichment process to Russia. [Emphasis added]

It is surely no coincidence that the news of Russia's new-found displeasure with their largest nuclear contracting agent comes alongside a visit by President Bush with leaders of both Russia and China at the APEC Summit in South Korea. Russia coming on board (and surely not without unrelated diplomatic 'sweetners') puts pressure on China to go it alone in any veto of UN Security Council sanctions on Iran for non-compliance with the IAEA. China may not be willing to go that route.

'Iran is on brink of a dark age'

Lillian Swift, The Telegraph UK:

Iran is on the brink of entering another dark age under its new conservative regime, according to one of its leading artistic luminaries.

Ali Reza Sami-Azar, who recently resigned as the head of the Teheran Museum of Contemporary Art, said the cultural glasnost of the past five years had come to an end.

"We are in very grave danger of reverting back to the post-revolutionary days, when only those artists who were deemed as expressing so-called Islamic values were displayed," he said in an interview with the Sunday Telegraph. READ MORE

"In those days artists who had flourished under previous regimes were persecuted. Culturally it was the dark ages for Iran."

Dr Sami-Azar spoke out after the phenomenal success of what he called his "goodbye show" - a big exhibition of 20th-century Western art that he knew would risk offending the piety of President Mahmoud Ahmadinejad's new administration.

The exhibition, which included works by Pablo Picasso, Andy Warhol, Salvador Dali, Francis Bacon and Jackson Pollock, has proved the most popular show since the museum's inception in 1977 and will end this week.

Visitors have been undeterred by the hardline rhetoric of Mr Ahmadinejad, who last week toured Iran reiterating his campaign promise to rid the Islamic Republic of "corrupting Western culture".

But its closure, said Dr Sami-Azar, would also mark the end of the period of relative cultural freedom begun by the reformist president Mohammad Khatami eight years ago.

"It took many years for the atmosphere to become relaxed enough to show it," he admitted.

"We experienced a certain cultural enlightenment under Khatami, there was a relative freedom of artistic expression and a shift from controlling the artistic community to supporting and encouraging it. But all this will come to an end now."

The collection, which had been languishing in Teheran vaults since the 1979 Islamic revolution, is controversial not only for its subject matter but because it was compiled by the deposed shah's wife, Farah Pahlavi.

While art critics regard it as one of the most important repositories of 20th-century artwork outside Europe and North America, Iran's theocracy has always viewed it as a reminder of the nation's corrupt, monarchical past - and a generation of Iranians has grown up without ever seeing the paintings.

Dr Sami-Azar gambled that Mr Ahmadinejad's censors, who have banned the showing of Western films, would fear a public outcry if they banned the exhibition too.

Its success has shown that even some conservative Iranians disagree with Mr Ahmadinejad's vision for their country, which has also led to a ban on advertisements featuring the footballer, David Beckham, and an instruction that all male government employees should grow beards.

Among visitors to the exhibition have been women wearing all-encompassing black chadors, who have browsed works including Bacon's sexually explicit triptych, Two Figures Lying on a Bed with Attendant, which Dr Sami-Azar sent on loan to Tate Britain last year.

In the censors' one intervention, the central panel - which depicts two naked men lying on a bed - was removed by Iran's morality police.

Staff at the museum say the reaction to the exhibition has "been like a bomb".

Whispering in front of a colourful image of an American fighter jet by James Rosenquist, one attendant said: "It has upset a lot of people and caused a lot of controversy behind the scenes. The man responsible for it has now gone and we have a conservative director in his place. He will certainly not be risking a show like this."

Over the past seven years artistic societies have flourished in Iran, organising more than 100 exhibitions of their work abroad. Now, however, the country's aesthetes fear that such movements will wither or be forced underground, with dull, state-sanctioned art taking its place.

The artistic community is not alone in feeling the return to Islamic values. After enjoying a period of relative freedom, female students at Teheran's universities are being told to dress according to orthodox guidelines.

Head scarves must be worn pulled forward to avoid showing any hair, make-up must not be noticeable and the hemline of the roupoush (the regulation long-sleeved tunic) has been dropped to just above the knee.

"It is like we have suddenly gone back 10 years," complained Yassi, a 19-year-old architecture student at Teheran University, who was turned away from class last week for wearing nail varnish and showing too much ankle.

"What was considered acceptable a few weeks ago; suddenly isn't. There is a feeling among the students that things are going to get worse."

Dr Sami-Azar also fears for his personal safety. "I was instrumental in pushing the boundaries and the conservatives won't forget that," he said. "I fully expect that when they get round to it they will cook up some charges against me."

Iraqi official’s “cosy” ties with Iran stir anger in Iraq

Iran Focus:

A visit to Iran by Iraq’s top security official and his profuse praise of the Iranian government’s policy towards its western neighbour have aroused serious questions over the war-torn country’s security policies, according to Iraqi analysts and intellectuals.

Many Sunnis and secular Shiites in Iraq are openly accusing Muwafaq al-Rubaie, Iraq’s National Security Adviser, of doing the bidding of a country with which Iraq fought a bloody eight-year war. READ MORE

During a two-day visit to Tehran this week and in meetings with senior Iranian officials, al-Rubaie made a number of statements reported by Iran’s state-run media rejecting “accusations by the United States and Britain that Iran is meddling in Iraq” and praising Tehran for its “cooperation” with Iraq.

“There is no evidence to prove that Iran is meddling in Iraq’s internal affairs”, al-Rubaie said. “We believe that the Iranian Islamic Republic is looking forward to creating an independent Iraq, which is led by a popular government”.

The official Iranian news agency, IRNA, quoted al-Rubaie as saying that “the presence of foreign troops in Iraq is a calamity that will last for some time and the presence of these troops in Iraq is not under the control of the Iraqi government”.

The purpose of al-Rubaie’s visit, according to Baghdad dailies, was to hold political and security deliberations with the Iranian officials. He signed an undisclosed security pact with his Iranian counterpart, Ali Larijani.

Observers were struck not only by al-Rubaie’s lavish praise for the Iranian government, but also by his failure to utter a word on the discovery of a secret torture chamber in Baghdad, which was being operated by officers of the Badr Brigade – a militia under the influence of Iran’s Islamic Revolutionary Guards Corps (IRGC).

“How would anyone expect al-Rubaie to find evidence of Iran’s meddling in our country?” asked Mohsin Faleh, an Iraqi journalist and political analyst, in an angry tone.

“Everyone in Iraq knows that al-Rubaie worked for many years under the patronage of Iran’s clerical establishment and was a senior adviser to the Qods (Jerusalem) Force of Iran’s Revolutionary Guards. But what many Iraqis find unacceptable is to have such a man occupy the most sensitive security post in this government. He is simply not fit for the job”, said Faleh, who like al-Rubaie is a Shiite Muslim, but is opposed to religious rule and Iranian influence in Iraq.

A fervent Islamist in his youth, al-Rubaie went on to become a prominent member of the Shiite Dawa Party when it was an anti-Saddam Hussein terrorist organisation in the 1980s”, according to Newsweek. Dawa’s leadership was under direct Iranian influence in those years.

Former Prime Minister Iyad Allawi stripped al-Rubaie of his post as security adviser over his “suspected ties” with Iran’s intelligence, Faleh said. But al-Rubaie was reinstated in his post when a pro-Iranian Shiite government took over earlier this year.

Iraqi Sunnis, too, have deep concerns about al-Rubaie’s Iranian connections.

“Iran is dominating our security and intelligence apparatus and some of the ministries like the Interior Ministry, but nothing is being done about this”, said Subhi al-Mokhtar, a Sunni Iraqi who teaches in Baghdad University. “People are even afraid to talk about the infiltration of the Iraqi government by Iran’s Iraqi agents, because they might end up either with a bullet in their head or jailed in some underground torture centre run by the Badr”, he said, referring to the militia that is the armed wing of the pro-Iranian Supreme Council for Islamic Revolution in Iraq (SCIRI).

Al-Mokhtar said the political fallout of al-Rubaie’s widely reported statements in Iran was so potent in Iraq that “he would have to resign or clearly retract those remarks”.

“We don’t need someone doing Iran’s bidding to take care of our security”, al-Mokhtar said.

Iran Still Not Opening Up to the IAEA

Alissa J. Rubin, The LA Times:

Iran offered limited information in response to requests from the U.N. nuclear watchdog agency for greater transparency and access to sensitive sites associated with the country's nuclear program, according to a report released Friday.

Meanwhile, a top U.S. official indicated Friday that the Bush administration would find acceptable a compromise under which Iran would process uranium and then send it to Russia for enrichment into nuclear fuel for civilian use.

The new report by Mohamed ElBaradei, director-general of the International Atomic Energy Agency, comes before a meeting Thursday of the agency's 35-member board of governors.

"Full transparency is indispensable and overdue," wrote ElBaradei, echoing previous comments by the IAEA. The agency has been frustrated in its effort to obtain documentation, answers to questions and access to scientists and sensitive sites.

The IAEA board has been on the brink of referring Iran to the United Nations Security Council, which could impose sanctions. But Russia and China, both members of the Security Council, are reluctant to move against Iran, thus preventing the U.S. and the European Union from pushing for a referral.

Despite this latest report, which a senior U.S. State Department official said showed Iran's cooperation with the IAEA to be "grudging, forced and incomplete," it appeared unlikely that the board would refer Iran to the Security Council at next week's meeting. The IAEA is still analyzing data and documents it obtained in the last two months from Iran.

Iran broke off two years of negotiations with Britain, France and Germany in August when it announced it was restarting a plant at Esfahan where it processes raw uranium yellowcake into a gas that can be further concentrated for civilian or military use.

President Mahmoud Ahmadinejad supports aggressive development of Iran's nuclear capability and has made bellicose comments toward Israel.

The nation's top nuclear negotiator, Ali Larijani, told state-run television that Iran had started converting a second batch of uranium. "This job is done, and the plant is continuing its activity," Larijani said in an interview broadcast Friday. He added that Iran had informed the U.N.'s nuclear monitoring agency of the development.

Although it was denounced by the U.S. and other countries, the move was hardly surprising considering Iran had restarted the Esfahan plant in August.

Tehran is also negotiating with Moscow over a deal in which Iran would continue to process uranium but would export the gas to Russia to be processed into fuel for civilian uses in Iran, Western diplomats said.

After a meeting in Pusan, South Korea, between President Bush and Russian President Vladimir V. Putin, U.S. national security advisor Stephen Hadley said the two leaders had discussed the proposal. He termed it "a good avenue to explore."

Asked by reporters whether the proposal is acceptable to Bush, Hadley said, "If we didn't think it was acceptable, we probably wouldn't encourage it to be explored."

Hadley also said that Britain, France and Germany, which have taken the lead in negotiations with Iran, support the proposal, as does Russia.

Previously, officials from the U.S. and the European Union refused to publicly endorse such an arrangement, because it would mean retreating from their position that Iran has to give up all aspects of the nuclear fuel cycle. Tehran, for its part, has signaled its dissatisfaction with the offer but has not rejected it outright.

"Iran appears to be confident they have done enough to get them through the next board meeting without a referral to the Security Council," said Gary Samore, a former National Security Council official in charge of nonproliferation issues, who is now at the John D. and Catherine T. MacArthur Foundation.

Iran is also taking its case to the American public. In a full-page advertisement in Friday's New York Times, the government detailed its reasoning for pursuing nuclear technology. It asserted that efforts to develop nuclear weapons would be self-defeating, and that claims that Iran was trying to develop nuclear weapons were based on false assumptions.

"The predominant view among Iranian decision-makers is that development, acquisition or possession of nuclear weapons would only undermine Iranian security," it said.

According to Friday's report, Iran has not yet given inspectors access to research centers associated with Lavizan Shiyan, a military site that was razed in 2004 before inspectors could examine it. A senior source close to the IAEA said the agency would like to test equipment that was used at Lavizan Shiyan or at research centers associated with it.

Iran did allow inspectors to return to Parchin, another military site. Environmental samples from there are now being tested.

Some material in the report suggested that despite Iran's denials, it had considered building a nuclear weapon. Documents that Iran obtained from Pakistani nuclear black marketer Abdul Qadeer Khan in the 1970s or early 1980s included one that appeared to describe how to build a casing for fissile material, said a Western diplomat in Vienna.

The document showed how to cast "enriched, natural and depleted uranium metal into hemispherical forms," said a confidential IAEA report. READ MORE

A State Department official cited the document as one more piece of evidence that Iran's true intention was to build a nuclear bomb. But IAEA officials refused to comment on the implications of the finding. The source close to the IAEA said that with only a few pages it was considerably less complete than a guide for building a bomb, which would likely run hundreds of pages.

Times staff writer Peter Wallsten in Pusan contributed to this report.

Iran linked to Iraqi Interior Ministry prison abuse - report

Iran Focus: a pro-MEK website

A top official in Iran’s notorious Ministry of Intelligence and Security (MOIS) was running the secret Iraqi Interior Ministry prison in Baghdad which was discovered this week to be one of many suspected torture centre across the country, according to an Arabic-language website.

The Saudi Arabian Ilaph website identified General Ahmad al-Mohandess, also known as Abu Mehdi Mohandess as head of the notorious detention centre which had housed more than 170 Iraqi prisoners. Al-Mohandess is one of the Iranian Intelligence Ministry's high-ranking officers, according to the report.

“When U.S. forces seized control of one of the Interior Ministry's buildings in the Jaderiya region near the official headquarters of the Supreme Council of Islamic Revolution in Iraq [SCIRI], led by Abdol-Aziz al-Hakim, they found prisoners who were suffering from malnutrition and on some of whose bodies, signs of torture could be seen”.

“Sources made it clear that this detention centre is run by a special group directly in contact with the Iranian Intelligence Ministry, and that there is coordination between this group and the Iraqi National Security Ministry, in which Abdul Karim al-Enzi, one of the Dawa Party leaders, has a seat”, the report said. READ MORE

It added that the National Security ministry had set up a special body for intelligence and arrests, which was directly tied to Iran's Intelligence Ministry vis-à-vis funding and organisation.

Ilaph said that its sources had linked the discovery of the secret detention centre to the sudden visit to Tehran by Mowaffaq al-Rubaie, Iraq's National Security Adviser, and his denying that the Islamic Republic was meddling in Iraq’s internal affairs. "There are no documents that prove Iran's interference in Iraq's state matters", said Rubaie while in Tehran.

Khatami defends Ahmadinejad’s stance - Iran daily

Iran Focus: a pro-MEK website

Iran’s former President Mohammad Khatami, a mid-ranking cleric dubbed a “moderate” by the West, defended the hard-line stance of his successor Mahmoud Ahmadinejad against the state of Israel, a semi-official daily wrote in a front-page headline on Saturday.

The daily Kayhan, which carries the official positions of Iran’s Supreme Leader Ayatollah Ali Khamenei, said that while defending Ahmadinejad’s threat that Israel “must be wiped off the map”, Khatami announced, “Ahmadinejad’s stance was the wish of the entire Iranian nation”. READ MORE

“Iran’s policies have not changed at all with the instalment of the new government”, Khatami was quoted as saying, while in Berlin.

He said that all administrations would stick to the fundamental policies of the Islamic Republic.

The former president was also quoted as having told German officials that Iran would pursue its “right” to carry out nuclear activities under the United Nations Non-Proliferation Treaty (NPT).

“It is natural that we are seeking our freedom and independence and we will resist any barrier in this regard including the West’s discriminatory and expansionist policies”, Khatami said.

Report Stirs Questions About Iran's Nuclear Program

Carla Anne Robbins, The Wall Street Journal:

Under pressure from United Nations investigators, Iran has admitted receiving basic instructions on how to cast enriched uranium into a form that can be used in a nuclear weapon. READ MORE

The disclosure, which came in a confidential report Friday to the board of the International Atomic Energy Agency, raises new, disturbing questions about Iran's nuclear ambitions. The report, reviewed by The Wall Street Journal, says the uranium-casting documents were part of a larger package of technical information, schematics and drawings primarily on how to enrich uranium provided to Tehran in 1987 by the nuclear black market headed by A.Q. Khan.

Also on Friday, the U.S. signaled it is willing to give Russia more time to try to broker a compromise with Iran over its nuclear program. Moscow -- with until now only hesitant backing from the U.S. and Europe -- has proposed that Iran be allowed to convert uranium to gas on its soil, while the far more sensitive step of enriching uranium would take place in Russia. Enriched uranium can be used for nuclear fuel or a nuclear weapon.

Iran rejected the idea a week ago. But Friday, U.S. National Security Adviser Stephen Hadley said "we think that doesn't end it." Mr. Hadley, who spoke to reporters after a meeting between President Bush and Russian President Vladimir Putin in South Korea, said, "We hope that, over time, Iran will see the virtue of this approach and it may provide a way out."

Paradoxically, Friday's confidential report to the IAEA board bolsters U.S. allegations that Iran is seeking to build a nuclear weapon. And indeed, U.S. officials until now had said they would push to have Iran's case referred to the Security Council when the board meets in Vienna next week.

But with so many troubles both in Iraq and at home, President Bush doesn't want another showdown, especially when close allies like Britain are also eager for a compromise. The confidential report details Iran's continuing refusal to share information with IAEA inspectors about its secret pursuit of sophisticated enrichment technology and possible military involvement in what Tehran insists is a civilian nuclear-fuel program.

Iran, which has previously admitted -- but then only under duress -- to extensive dealings with the Khan network, told the agency that it hadn't requested the casting documents. Diplomats with knowledge of the agency's work said investigators considered the finding extremely worrisome, but still not proof that Iran has an active weapons program. Investigators haven't found any sign that Iran actually tried to form uranium into "hemispherical forms" that could be used for weapons. Nor have they found a weapons design in Iran, like they did in Libya. The Libyans also said that they hadn't requested the bomb design from the Khan network.

Iran has moved repeatedly between confrontation and conciliation since it pulled out of negotiations with the Europeans last summer and resumed converting uranium. Throughout, Iran has counted on the protection of Russia, China and the so-called nonaligned members of the board. Many of those members have strong economic ties to Tehran or are fearful that diplomatic censure could open the way for a U.S.-led war.

Iran has sought to mollify IAEA inspectors with improved access and information. Indeed, before Friday's report, U.S. and European diplomats had expressed concern that Tehran was winning the agency over. The report gave Tehran only limited credit, describing it as "more forthcoming" in providing requested documentation on the 1987 dealing with the Khan network. It also noted that Tehran had allowed investigators a return visit to the Parchin explosives test range, a site some intelligence analysts suspected might be part of an illicit nuclear-weapons program.

But the five-page report strongly chides Iran for not providing even more cooperation. "Iran's full transparency is indispensable and overdue," the report said. The report asks both for more documentation and for access to "relevant military owned workshops and [research and development] locations."

Write to Carla Anne Robbins at carla.robbins@wsj.com

Iran and the Truth

Walid Choucair, Al-Hayat:

There is a decisive factor in the Syrian counterattack on the international pressure exerted on Damascus in the framework of the international investigation into the assassination of martyr PM Rafik Hariri. The factor is the Iranian consolidated stance with the Syrian leadership, "government and people wise", as stated by the Iranian Foreign Minister Manouchehr Mottaki upon his visit to the Syrian capital earlier this week. READ MORE

Iran has decided to mobilize all its capabilities to prevent these pressures from destabilizing the Syrian regime. In addition to its conviction thereon, its stakes in it are high, especially in the light of its escalating crisis with the international community on the Iranian nuclear file. In the worst-case scenario, it does not intend to discard the "paper" of supporting the current Syrian regime in the event it senses, as is the case in other active Arab countries like Egypt and KSA, the threats of this possibility and the US indifference towards its repercussions on the rest of the surrounding countries.

Nevertheless, the Iranian concern over the destabilization of the Syrian regime is different from the Arab concern in different respects. Tehran wants first to maintain all its regional defensive lines and will fight any attempt to wipe out these lines. This is as long as the confrontation with the US and Europe is still a growing possibility, and as long as these lines impose on Washington and Europe certain calculations before escalating the pressure on it with respect to the nuclear file.

Secondly, Iran's defense of the Syrian stance is in harmony with the radical atmosphere that it has been witnessing since the election of the President Mahmoud Ahmedi Nejad.

Thirdly, its vision of the truth on Hariri's assassination is different from the rest of the Arab countries, which are concerned over the stability disruption in Syria. The reason is that it considers that, despite Syria's major mistakes in dealing with Lebanon, which led to the pullout of the Syrian forces in such a way, it is not permissible that the price of all these mistakes, which are deemed to be blatant by the Iranian leadership, would grow to be beneficial for the US and Israel to entrap Syria in the power claws of the two countries. In the midst of Iran's defense of the Syrian stance, there is a call for a settlement or deal regarding the truth, which secures fending off suspicions on any member of the narrow rule circle in Syria. Iran sets the high political, national, and Islamic interests above the rest.

This leads to a reading that involves multiple arguments to possibly explain the Iranian defense, such as the argument that says: why doesn't the investigation into the crime of making Imam Moussa Sadr disappear come to indict Libya? But the major argument is: why did one of the Arab leaders condone those accused of attempting to kill him, even though they are from another Arab country? This argument implies that the higher political reasons call for forgiveness, although the difference is that the Arab leader that issued the condonation was not killed while Hariri was killed… there is a number of Lebanese leaders who are virtually dead, and the people are awaiting the burial date!

The Iranian stance utterly espouses the Syrian stance with respect to the international investigation committee and to the request of its head, Judge Detlev Mehlis, to question six major Syrian officers. The stance's terminology almost literally corresponds with that of Hezbollah in putting forth skepticism on the politicization of the international investigation, to the point that it identifies with the party's viewpoint in its conflict with some internal parties, including PM Fouad Saniora.

The Syrian counter-attack is at the same time an Iranian attack, to the point that the prevailing conviction of some of those concerned is that the Iranian authority in Lebanon, which was during the previous years a paper in Syria's hand, has now become totally in control of Syria's situation. This is a principal reason that made Hezbollah change its inclinations in the relation with the two members of the "Quadripartite Alliance" or "the Future Bloc" and the Progressive Socialist Party (the fourth member is "Amal" movement) following months of agreement and harmony.

However, the question remains: if Tehran reaches a settlement with Washington with respect to the nuclear file, will it include its stance vis-à-vis Syria or will it proceed without it?

Reporter's Notebook: Inside Iran

Amy Kellogg, FOX News:

I took the overnight flight from London to Tehran, which arrived at 6:30 in the morning. Iran said it would only grant FOX News one visa. Usually I travel with a producer and a cameraman. This time, I was entirely on my own. READ MORE

Since I am a U.S. citizen and America has no diplomatic ties with Iran, I figured going through the arrival routine might be a nightmare. I had arranged, at the cost of $100, to use the CIP service: Commercially Important Persons. I never thought a journalist (except maybe Barbara Walters) could be considered "commercially important," but apparently anyone with an extra Ben Franklin qualifies.

In the Islamic Republic of Iran it is the law that women cover their heads, so before disembarking from the plane I threw a headscarf and a long wool coat on. In some places the all-enveloping black cloak called the "chador" is mandatory, otherwise a scarf and regular coat will do. The problem is the coat stays on all the time — even in heated office buildings — until you are back in your home or hotel.

I was met on the ramp by a man in a suit with a sign, then was whisked through the bowels of Mehrabad International Airport. He turned me over to two men in uniform who kept me waiting for a while, and then led me to a remote room in a dimly-lit basement. They couldn't find the light switch in the room, so there we were, the three of us, searching the dark room for light. One of them then fished out a little-used vat of ink and rifled through some papers, as if trying to figure out what do do next. Since America apparently fingerprints Iranians at JFK, there's a tit-for-tat reciprocal arrangement in Tehran. I have never given my prints before so I figured a digit or two would do, then it became clear that all 10 were required. I asked if I could get some wet-wipes out of my briefcase to avoid reaching in with two inky hands later. I don't speak Farsi and they didn't speak much English, so a strange little pantomime ensued. One of my guards gave me a look as if to say, "I am so sorry I have to do this to you." He took the baby wipes from me, opened the packet, and got one ready. I was feeling a bit disoriented, weak, blinking through very dry contact lenses. Cleaning ink off 10 fingers is not easy, and suddenly the officials seemed in a huge hurry to move me along. I began to fumble with my bulging briefcase, trying to close it and find a garbage can for my grimy wet wipe. My scarf slipped off my head. A third man appeared out of nowhere and barked at me to adjust it...

From there I was handed over to my "fixer," the term journalists use for people we employ when travelling to foreign countries to help us "fix" our interviews and video shoots. I had been speaking to this man for months on the phone as the details of my visit were worked out, and felt I knew him already. I was very glad to see him, finally, in the flesh. He shook my hand heartily — he had warned me in advance that he would, so I wouldn't be taken aback. Men and women don't usually shake hands in Iran, but he was relaxed, friendly and raring to go. Time was of the essence.

It was the day Iranians mark the anniversary of the hostage taking of dozens of Americans at the U.S. Embassy in 1979, and we had to get to the demonstration on time. It had already begun. Before I knew it, I was right in the middle of a crowd of young people, burning American flags, chanting "Death to America," "Death to Israel," and I think "Death to Britain" was thrown in for good measure. We hooked up with a camera crew and then split up. Men to one side, women to another. In the middle of it all, up on a podium festooned with large, funereal flower arrangements, a student leader of the Basijis (the militant, para-military revolutionary group), a kid who looked like a young version of Iran's new president, was barking speeches over a PA system. He was jabbing alternately, his right hand, then left — first toward the men, then toward the women, for emphasis. As he carried on, he whipped the crowd of thousands into something of a frenzy.

There I stood amidst the young women all in chadors and trademark green Basiji headbands, some with incendiary placards. They gathered into small groups and by turn, just stared at me. One by one, the representative of each little group who could speak English would approach me and ask where I was from. "America," I said. And each time, I got a disarmingly warm smile in return —wide eyes peaking out from black cloaks. "America?" And then, "Welcome to Iran! How are you? Is this your first time here? I hope you will like it and your trip will be successful."

The irony of their warm greetings, given the circumstances, was surreal. In turn, each of them went on to tell me how much they dislike American foreign policy but how they like Americans. However one young woman told me, that if she had to, and the circumstances were right, she'd take hostages herself.

It's hard to judge to what extent these young Basijis actually believe in the party line. I've been told by some in Iran that by joining the organization, people are assured better grades in school and promotion opportunities in the workplace.

This crowd was bused in for the demonstration. It was by no means a spontaneous expression of rage. When it was over, they all got back on buses and dispersed like a puff of smoke. No after parties. No further bonfires.

My crew and I moved on to the bazaar, a teeming, roofed-in series of narrow alleys with stalls, grouped by industry. One section was just fake labels; Western labels, top-end designer tags, spools and spools of designer labels to be sewn into clothing. So much for "Death to America."

As the camera crew shot colorful video of Iranians shopping, trading, and going about daily life, my fixer invited me to see a carpet shop. I'm used to being dragged to carpet shops in the Middle East, but not by my fixer! "Oh, no," I said. "I'm just not up for that." I might possibly be the only person in the world who doesn't love Oriental carpets. I fully appreciate their beauty and workmanship, but they're just not me. Furthermore, I love to shop, but only if I am left alone. Carpet shops to me are aggressive, claustrophobic places, and take me beyond agita ... a hostage situation of another sort. I was in no mood to argue, however, so I let my fixer drag me along through the narrow bazaar warrens, where the crowds push and shove their way along and all types of carts and motorbikes creep up on you by stealth. If you're not wary, you'll simply get mowed over.

Once in the chosen carpet shop, whose owner was my fixer's buddy, the door instantly was shut and the show began...stacks of lovely silks dramatically unfurled on the floor before me. I was roasting in my coat, which I could not take off for modesty’s sake, and was dehydrated from my long-haul flight. It's hot and it's still Ramadan and therefore I'm conspicuously not packing Evian. The carpet salesman asks me if I want tea.

"Tea?" I ask. "But it's Ramadan, and the sun's not down yet."

"Yes, but you are a traveler," he replied with a wink.

Travelers, the very young, and sick are exempt from fasting. Of course, non-Muslims, such as I, are too, but it seemed insensitive to drink anything before the others who were also, I assumed, quite thirsty by this time. Eating, drinking, or smoking in public places during Ramadan is pretty much a no-no in Iran.

At first I thought, no, I can't enjoy tea while they suffer. But then, I thought, wait a minute, they're going to make me look at carpets, so I'm going to let them make me tea. Let me tell you, tea never tasted better. When Iranians actually brew it the old fashioned way, it's something else. Problem is, you look forward to that treat each time you're offered a cup and every so often you are let down by the do-it-yourself version of some hot water and a simple tea bag!

The carpet salesman asked me where I was from. I told him New York, originally.

"New York?!" his eyes lit up. "I have a friend from New York,” he added.

He dug out her business card from his records of clients past. She turned out to also be a friend of mine, a Japanese woman who lives in New York and whom I haven't seen for years. It's a minuscule world.

Suddenly, I thought, taking a long sip of tea, maybe everything's going to be just fine after all. And it was. The flag-burning Basijis in my experience were the exception to the rule.

The next day we stopped for lunch at a restaurant. We were greeted by a white-coated physician with authoritative white hair, whose role was to show everyone that hygiene in this establishment was taken seriously. It was a Disney-like place — talk about it being a small world — they had a huge display of miniature flags spread out right next to the sprawling salad bar.

The gentle old doctor pointed to me and asked my fixer, "Where's she from?"

Even with my headscarf disguise, I stuck out in Iran.

"America," my fixer said.

"Oh," he said, glancing forlornly at the flags. "I feel so badly. We don't have her flag."

"Don't worry," my fixer shot back. "She saw plenty of them being burned yesterday."

The doctor bowed his head and shook it. "I'm so ashamed."

Amy Kellogg is an international correspondent based in FNC's London bureau.